KOKYET IN PARLIAMENT OF INDIA
I came across the national as well as State media news report that, “the Kokyet of Manipur will be part of the uniform of Marshal in the Parliament of India and the new uniform will be wore by the staffs on the Special Session which will be held on 19th September, 2023 at Sansad Bhavan” and I was waiting enthusiastically for the day to come. The very day came and I was disappointed that I didn’t see Manipuri Kokyet (Meitei Kokyet) in the session. It was really a surprise for me to see this incident and I would like to say a few words to the people of this land on this topic which is closely related to me.
I received a phone call from a media person on 14th September, 2023 regarding the Kokyet of Parliament.
He said, “Is there Lamthang khulak in the Kokyet you supplied to the Parliament? I replied,“Can you please ask the question in full sentence?” as I was unable to understand him.
Few seconds later I realised that he wanted to ask me whether there was Lamthang Khulak in the Kokyet I had sent to the Parliament.
On the same call another person said to me, “Well we heard that the Kokyet will be supplied by you, We’ve learned that there are 12 types of kokyets. We’re at the very moment with an expert on Kokyet. We’re told there are restrictions which types can be and which cannot be worn by the Marshal. So we want to know which type of Kokyet you have supplied.
I said,” This particular Kokyet have been newly designed even the pattern and colour are different from the actual one. He continued saying, ‘please speak to Echema Sobita who was the former Director, Art & Culture.
Then she said, “Hello Ebungo! It’s me, we are very happy to hear with the new dress code of Parliament, the Lamthang Khulak is normally worn by the grooms of Manipur nowadays but we don’t want the exact pattern of Lamthang Khulak to be use like this, by the way is that Lamthang Khulak actual one? It is good if that is not the actual one.” I replied to her saying, “ Ojha ! The one which I have given to the parliament is different even the colour and pattern are all newly designed.”
After hearing this, she encouraged me by saying, it’s good.
Then the media person asked me if we can have a meeting but I couldn’t because I was far away from the city at that time.
On the next day I saw plenty of national and local media news reports with different Kokyet pictures. The news report of The Economics Times, The Times of India, Imphal Free Press etc. dated 15th September,2023 had mentioned that Yumnam Bhumeshwar Singh is a Manipuri Cultural Artiste who supervised the new design of the Kokyet to be spotted by the Marshals. According to Yumnam, the newly developed turban has brand new colour patterns and design inspired by the “Salai Taret Kokyet” with Lamthang Khuthak.
On this account, I was confused with the word “Salai Taret Kokyet” how did they mentioned the word “Salai Taret Kokyet” on this matter and I don’t know to whom did they asked for mentioning it on this regard.
Again on local cable TV Discussion hour program entitled “ROW OVER KOKYET RECOMMENDATION” on ISTV (one of the leading local News television channel of Manipur) which was telecasted on 16th September, 2023 and uploaded on its YouTube channel on 17th September, 2023 asked What is Kokyet, when to wear, who can wear it and about its types to K. Sobita Devi (Former Art & Culture Director as a panellist of the discussion).
To these, she answered, “More than 12 types of Kokyets can be traced namely: i). Loloi Kokyet (worn by Kings while seating on the throne), ii). Tolok ( Worn by Amaiba while getting out the evils), iii). Pheiyet ( worn by the Prince and King), iv). Salai Matek, v). Salai Mapum, vi). Salai Oinambi, vii). Salai Matok Pandaba, viii). Lairen Makhoi, ix). Pala Kokyet Achouba, x). Ajmeri, xii). Chinbun Lakpa and there are other types which are not found in the pictures such as Paklei and Pakhang Tolok.
We find Sankirtana group use Salai Matek and Salai Mapum which are worn by Mandap Mapu and groom. “Salai Kokyet Oidanambi” should be worn by the Selungba, Phamnaiba etc and this is present trend.”
In the book entitled “Manipuri Costumes through Ages” written by Mutua Bahadur classified Kokyet into the following types:- i). Lolei, ii).Tolok, iii). Pakhang Tolok, iv). Pakloi, v). Kangdrum, vi). Pheiyet, vii). Samjin Ningkham, viii). Samjin Karan oina nambi/ Karan yet nimbi, ix).Samjin karan nama tabi, x). Salai Achouba, xi). Salai oina nimbi, xii). Salai macha, xiii). Kokyet achouba and xiv). Nupi Kokyet etc. And Kokyet which is known as “Salai Macha” is the one worn by the groom with “Namthang Phijin” he mentioned.
As mentioned in the book of Ojha Mutua Bahadur, the Kokyet worn by the groom and the one which worn by the Maichou are the same but the colour of the Namthang Phijin are different. And it is interesting to know that in both the books of K.Sobita and Mutua Bahadur, Salai Kokyet Matek (K.Sobita) and Salai Kokyet/Salai Kokyet Achouba (Mutua Bahadur) are of same design mentioned in three different names.
In the book entitled “Nata Cholom Wamachang” written by Elangbam Chaobhal Singh, it is mentioned that there are 15 types of Kokyet and the some names differs from one another.
And in his another book “Cholom Pareng” Elangbam Chaobhal Singh had mentioned the classification and changes of Koyet design used in Sankirtana according to the period of its usages such as during Garibniwaz, Bhagyachandra and Churachand Maharaj etc.
It can be mention here that “Lamthang Khulak” in the book of K.Sobita and “Namthang Phijin” in Ojha Mutua Bahadur’s book are same with different names.
Hence, we get to know here that the same things are referred differently in different books.
We also find so many differences on Kokyet mentioned in the books written by “Kongjenbam Dhono Singh” who was one of the famous Kokyet making Artiste of Manipur.
Again, in “Meitei Phijet Leiteng” written by Ojha Phurailatpam Iboton Singh mention as “Lamthang Khullak” and today in many local media the term “Lamthang Khulak” is mentioned as “Lamthang Khut-hat”, Namthang Khulak/Khut-hat etc.
Comparing the above books, I find“Meitei Phijet Leiteng” as most authentic book. In this book, 14 types of Kokyets are mentioned with its name and uses.
According to Meitei Phijet Leiteng “Lolei-Tolok, Pakhang Tolok macha, Pakloi kokyet types are worn only by the Deities. Likewise, “Salai Kokyet Achouba” can be wear by the Kings and the common people.”
This is the type of Kokyet which I had supplied to Parliament of India as a uniform to be worn by the Marshal. It is also mentioned in this book that Lamthang Khullak was only used by the person who was rewarded by the King and Queen.
Those rewarded person used to wear Kokyet with decoration of Lamthang Khullak on the border of the Kokyet. There are traditional pattern for the Common Meitei Ladies which can the worn by stitching it into the border of their cloths on the occasion of their marriage ceremony. This particular pattern are taken from the snake and the designs are similar with the actual Lamthang Khullak but the patterns are deferent. It was traditionally stitched with black silk thread and border should be black in colour.
The origin of this pattern can be traced during Meidingo Yangloukeiphaba (969 AD - 984 AD). This pattern was stitched by the metal during the reign of Bhagyachandra Maharaj (1759 AD- 1798 AD) and like this the fashion of its uses with bronze were started.”
That is why the design of the Kokyet which I have supplied to Parliament doesn’t affect our Manipuri culture and tradition. I have done this for the betterment of my motherland “Manipur.”
Lastly, I would like to request those people who are misleading the society with the help of electronic media and print media to stop such kind of activities instead of encouraging young upcoming artiste like me.
Instead of disrespecting such post like Marshal of the Parliament by calling them Chaiwala, Choukidar etc. on the Media, one must research from the official pages of the Parliament and enrich themselves to avoid creating confusion.